Counterfeiting in the watch industry
Watch expert Thomas Gronenthal gave an exclusive interview to WDR on the subject of counterfeiting in the watch industry. The interview, which was recorded for an investigative TV programme, took place in the DuBois et fils workshop.
For the report, the WDR team conducted an experiment with a controversial background: the journalists ordered three counterfeit watches online, directly from China – two Rolex models and one Patek Philippe. At first glance, the watches appeared to be genuine. However, watchmaker Thomas Gronenthal analysed the replicas and shared valuable insights into the world of counterfeiting. With his trained eye and decades of experience, he examined the fakes under the microscope and gradually exposed them. Small details such as imprecise engravings, poor finishing of the hands and minute deviations in the dimensions, that revealed the true origin of the watches. The accuracy analysis was particularly revealing, with at least two of the watches failing the test.
However, the article went beyond mere exposure; Thomas Gronenthal also explained how watch wearers can effectively protect themselves against counterfeits today, presenting two modern technologies currently in use in the watch industry.
The first is the so-called physical tracer – an invisible nanomarker used by Haus Gübelin, for example. This marker is integrated into metal components and is invisible, even under a microscope, yet can be reliably verified at any time. It is a kind of invisible signature that gives a watch its unique identity. In the DuBois et Fils workshop, this tracer is applied to the cases of the Gübelin watch designed by Santiago Calatrava.
The second is Blockchain-Technologie. This technology is used by DuBois et fils. Each watch is given a digital identity in the form of a complete chronicle that includes certificates of authenticity, inspection reports and changes of ownership. Manipulation? Impossible.
A conclusion for true values: protection through innovation
A particular highlight of the programme was the contribution from Kenny, a passionate watch collector and friend of the DuBois et Fils brand. To enable a direct comparison between the original and the fake, he brought along two masterpieces from his collection: a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona in solid 18-carat white gold and an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 50th Anniversary – true icons of haute horlogerie. During the interview, Kenny discussed his passion for high-quality watches, emphasising that counterfeits hold no interest for collectors as they would not enjoy wearing them.
Thomas Gronenthal draws a clear conclusion: “Counterfeits are becoming increasingly sophisticated, and it is becoming increasingly difficult for consumers to spot them. At the same time, it is becoming easier to buy them online.” However, customers of DuBois et fils can rest assured that the combination of historic movements whose complexity makes reproduction virtually impossible, blockchain-based authenticity certification, and special components such as the propeller crown of the DBF009 pilot's watch offers comprehensive protection against counterfeiting.
This report impressively demonstrates that, in order to protect watch lovers worldwide from counterfeits, authenticity, craftsmanship and technological innovation must go hand in hand today. The programme will be broadcast on German television in the coming months and will then be available in the ARD-Mediathek.
